More Wine Splurges in Venice: Caffe Florian

Much like our other post from a few days ago, this one is about our indulgences in Venice.

me with (unseeable) bell town in background

While in Venice, we partook in the Venetian cafe culture at the Caffe Florian on Piazza San Marco. Although a bit more than what we should have paid for a glass of wine (8 euro) and sandwich (12 euro), the cafe is one of the oldest coffee houses in the city (serving overpriced sandwiches since 1720) and was a great cultural experience, albeit one I only need to do once in a lifetime. We chose Caffe Florain for 1) name recognition (thanks, Rick Steves) and 2) for its live music. All of the cafes on St. Mark's Square have live bands in the evening, but Caffe Florian's band had a little something special. Perhaps it was the woman violinist? The accordion player?

Callie enjoying the music

Knowing that Venice caters to tourists almost as a natural process of the city's functions (it's hard to imagine Venice without tourists, actually), felt too-good-to-be-true at times: like Disney World. Like there was no real life in the city, and no real inhabitants. Just pretty buildings and canals. Like we were visiting a museum for an extended weekend. And like we really mattered to the wait staff, hotel staff, etc., etc. as long as we could pay up in the end. Venice, decidedly so, is not for the faint of pocketbook. Thus, splurge ;)

Also, photos of us enjoying Bellinis (finally uploaded!!)

Lelovits Kékfrankos 2007

the Kekfrancos grape on the vine

Similar to a Pinot Noir, the Kékfrankos grape is red and juicy and grown in Hungary and eastern Austria (known in German as Zweigelt).


Unfortuantely, our latest attempt at getting a Kékfrancos...that is, replicating the absolute heaven that was a bottle of Kékfrancos bought in 2007 in Budapest, was a no-go. V.C.'s latest trip to Hungary (resulting in 2 bottles of wine) was less successful than originally hoped, mostly due to her inability to remember exactly what kind of wine she got last time - just that it was a Kékfrancos. And communication in A) Hungarian and B) English with Hungarians can be, to put it diplomatically...difficult.

Result? The realization that not all Kékfrancos are created equal. A mediocre yet incredibly cheap (< 1000 Forint, i.e. ~ 4 Euro) bottle of Kékfrancos from a charming wine shop midway between our hostel and the downtown (Pest) ended up coming home with me, to be drunk about a week ago in my apartment in Amstetten.

Says C.B.: "Not as divine as what we had 3 years ago." With yucky-face sort of like this: >:P

Breaking the Budget: Vino in Venezia

Having recently reunited for a European adventure (take two), V.C. and I have returned (in her case) and arrived (in mine) in Austria from Italy, where we visited Venice and the Italian Riviera. Beautiful! Relaxing! Delightful! We love Italy even more than the first time we did when we were there three years ago. Three years can change a lot of things...

Today I bring you a vinous update from the watery canals of Venice, that most elegant city, where the drink of choice is a Bellini, followed closely by prosecco.

Having decided that if we were going to drink Bellinis, they should be good Bellinis, we decided to forgo the frugal path of wisdom in favor of splurging on 8 Euro Bellinis at the Hotel Metropole, an elegant and otherwise unaffordable establishment on Venice's lagoon. Served in the characteristic Bellini glass and made with freshly crushed peaches, we were not disappointed in the drinks or in the frankly decadent grandeur of our setting, the Metropole's "Oriental Bar," where we were further entertained by a Russian businessman and an elderly British couple being condescending toward each other as they debated the various merits of buying an ocean liner so they could, we kid not, sail to Capetown and Shanghai, Rio de Janeiro and Monte Carlo.

We in no way condone splurging unnecessarily on drinks. If at all possible, doing so should be avoided. However, with the right time and place, it is certainly fun to drink a Bellini at the Hotel Metropole.

A more affordable option might be to make your own. It's quite simple. Simply purchase a bottle of prosecco, champagne or similar sparkling wine and a fresh peach or two (depending on the number of guests and/or bellinis required). Mash up the peaches to a fine pulp and pour into the bottom of the glass (champagne flutes seem to be preferred but those who are offended by a simple wine glass shouldn't do this anyway). Pour champagne/prosecco on top. Serve. It's that simple!*

Alternatively, for those whom peach-mashing is too much trouble, it is possible to buy pre-made "Bellini," sold to our knowledge throughout much of Italy as well as in World Market in the U.S. It is an acceptable alternative, provided you are willing to subject your body to so many preservatives.

*You may also add a splash of peach schnapps but it is not really necessary.

Where Have All the White Wines gone?

It's spring time, which means it't time to whip out delicious white wine, summer drinks and the like.

Recently, I had the chance to sample a fruity, new wine to go with all of the lovely springtime weather we've been having in Amstetten.

Called "Welcome," it is from the Winvino line of affordable Austrian wines: Danke (thank you) a Zweigelt, Welcome, the only Veltliner – and, thus, white wine of the bunch -  Zweisam (twosome) a Blaufränkisch/Zweigelt mix, Sternstund (magic moment) which is their cuvee wine…

For €3.59 at the local Penny Markt, Welcome is a delicious, yet inexpensive,  wine choice for the picky, broke consumer.  Sharing the wine aisle with 2-liter plastic bottles of Tafelwein (table wine), this Qualitätswein is sort of a big fish in a small pond…and one of the more expensive wines at the Aldi-esque Austrian market. Aside from the price, this white wine is a crisp, refreshing, with notes of lemon and green apple and went very well with my home-made hummus! 

The best thing about new wines in a typically dry wine is that they are somewhat sweeter (not being given the time to fully ferment) which makes them perfect entertaining wines. But unlike Riesling, Grüner Veltliner is not typically sickeningly sweet, and can thus be enjoyed with lots of things and by lots of people. Grüner Veltliner, unfortunately for those Stateside, is not commonly found outside of Austria - you'll have to do a bit of digging. It has been compared to Moscato (Muskatell)...but I shall not make that claim, as I think Moscato is sweeter.    

Habánské sklepy 1614 Zweigeltrebe

 In Prague, I picked up an absolutely delicious Zweigelt (similar in flavor to a Pinot Noir) at a Billa.

I was, in fact, quite lucky to get a good wine...not because the Czech Republic is rife with bad wine, or anything, but my Czech abilities are - how shall I put this? - nonexistent. Which makes it difficult to pick out a wine you'll like, if you can't exactly read the bottle.

I was biting my nails all the way home, wondering if I had bought by mistake a sweet red wine (they are somewhat more popular in eastern Europe than in the Mediterranean...except for Greece, inexplicably). But, because of my German abilities, and having tasted a Zweigelt before, I thought I'd be pretty safe. Zweigelts are an Austrian grape, and known to be spicy and rich in tannins, but not as heavy as the Blaufränkisch, another popular eastern European grape variety.

At around 100 Czech Korúny, or €4, this was an especially good choice for the connoisseur on a budget...moi! I accompanied my wine with a nice Austrian cheese (Bergkäse - similar to a Gruyère) and stuffed mushrooms...DEEEE-LISH! The wine's color was ruby red, with raspberry notes and a woodsy flavor which paired excellently with the mushrooms.

I only wish now I had bought more bottles. Though I doubt that they would have fit in my backpack. This can be another excuse to go back to Prague - not that one needs excuses...

Prague's famous Astronomical Clock

Reasons to Love Wine

OK, so, for anyone interested, I will now delineate why I love wine:

1) It gets you drunk.

2) Good wine is sooooooo yummy, I have no idea how to explain the sensation to someone who doesn't like wine. If you don't like wine, sorry, we can't be friends.

3) Grapes. I love grapes. I love raisins. I love wine. 'Nuff said. Ask my mom.

4) You can be a total snob about wine and be completely justified. Name one other aspect of life where this is appropriate. Can you?

5) Wine is grown in many wonderful regions of the world. Including Austria. I want to visit them all.

6) Food and wine go well together. I am a total foodie.

7) Wine is fine by itself. I love wine.

8) See my Facebook profile.

Weingut - Or, How Austrians Buy Their Wine

NB: As V.C. is currently living in Austria, and has plenty of wine stories to share...consider this overlap, the intersection of two blogs with the intention to educate distinct groups of followers...rather than pure laziness on our parts.

The Weinviertel is one of Austria's loveliest areas, a region to be proud of. On the border with the Czech Republic, it is rather hilly (certainly not mountainous when compared to the Alps) and known for white wines. For red wine, one must go to Burgenland...on the border with Hungary. 

During the, excursion, partaken with Austrians who really know their wines, I sampled some typical Austrian wines (mostly Grüner Veltliner) but also some Rieslings, a Traminer...etc., went to three different Weinguts, that is, wineries...or wine-growing estates...all family-run and charming! 

Each was different and offered different specialties, which I enjoyed. I tried to keep them all straight, but by the end of the afternoon (it must be said) I just had had too much wine! Each place is family-run and -owned, so there is a real homey atmosphere. My hosts told me that they had been going to one of the wine farms for over 20 years, and knew the whole family. I found that kind of amazing.

Another interesting aspect of Austrian wine culture is the Heurige, which means both "new wine" and the place where the vintners showcase their new wines once they come out -- which should be pretty soon! Exciting stuff. Depending on whether the Heurige is owned by the vintners, or by a local Gasthaus (Pension), they open between mid-October and early November. 

Here are some photos of the last place we went.

Unfortunately, there are no photos of the other 2 places. One was in a dungeon (OK. Wine cellar) which did not make for a photographic scene.

The second place was actually in the home of the Weinbauer and, yes, I was introduced as the American teaching assistant (probably a precaution against my sitting there looking stupid) but I still feel uncomfortable taking pictures in people's homes uninvited. I don't want to get a reputation as one of those Americans, you know.

Below are the grapes they gave us at the second place. I've eaten them all ready and they were super yummy! The one downside is that they had seeds. Which makes for a messy snack, but even better, you know they didn't put disgusting chemicals on the grapes to make them "seedless" i.e. infertile.

AND...the piece de resistance: 

This is all of the wine my Austrian hosts bought...over 300 Euros' worth!!! My kind of people :)